How do I remove old wallpaper?
Test the paper at a seam, score it if it will not lift, soak it with warm water or wallpaper remover, and push it off with a plastic putty knife. Then wash the leftover paste from the wall. If the house predates 1978, treat the paint underneath as possibly lead-based and use lead-safe practices or hire a certified contractor first.
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By Kasra Taheri, Founder, LoclisPublished
Researched and drafted with AI, then checked claim by claim against the sources listed below before it was published. Prices and rules change; the dates beside each source say when it was last checked.
Step by step
Read when to stop and call a pro, further down this page, before you start.
Step 2: Prepare the room
Clear the room, cover the floor with plastic sheeting,[2] switch off the breaker for the room's outlets, take off the cover plates and tape over the openings.
Step 3: Find out what kind of paper it is
Lift a corner at a seam with a putty knife. Strippable paper comes away in whole sheets; peelable paper leaves a thin backing layer; paper that will not lift needs soaking.
Step 4: Score the surface if it will not lift
On vinyl or painted-over paper, run a scoring tool lightly over the surface so water can reach the paste. Press gently so you do not cut into the drywall paper.
Step 5: Wet the paper
Sponge or spray on warm water, or the stripper recommended on the label, and give it time to soak in. Work one wall at a time so it does not dry out.
Step 6: Scrape it off
Hold a plastic putty knife at a low angle and push the softened paper off in strips, keeping the blade flat so the corners do not gouge the wall.
Step 7: Wash off the leftover paste
Wipe the bare wall with warm water and a sponge until it no longer feels slick or tacky, then rinse the sponge often.
Step 8: Dry, repair and prime
Let the wall dry fully, fill any gouges, sand lightly and apply a primer before paint or new paper.
You can remove most wallpaper yourself with warm water, a scoring tool and a plastic putty knife: test the paper, score it if it will not lift, soak it, scrape it off and wash the paste from the wall. Before you start, work out whether the house is old enough that the paint underneath needs lead precautions.
Start by checking the house, not the paper
If your home was built before 1978, it is more likely to have lead-based paint.[1] That matters because wallpaper often hides old paint, and scraping and soaking can disturb it. EPA warns that "Renovation or repair activities that disturb painted surfaces in older homes, buildings and structures may create large amounts of lead dust."[1]
Generally speaking, the RRP Rule does not apply to homeowners doing RRP projects in their own home.[2] That is not the same as being risk free. For a pre-1978 house, EPA recommends hiring a certified lead inspector or lead risk assessor to test your home[2], or assuming the paint is lead-based and working accordingly.
Set up the room
Clear the room, then cover the floor. EPA's do-it-yourself guidance says to "Cover floors with plastic sheeting."[2] It also says to "Turn off forced-air heating and air conditioning systems."[2] so dust does not travel through the house. Cover the vents with plastic and tape.
Switch off the breaker for the room's outlets and light switches, remove the cover plates and tape over the openings. Water and live outlets should never meet. If you are not sure which breaker is which, stop and have an electrician sort it out.
Test the paper
Lift a corner at a seam with a putty knife. Three things can happen:
- It comes off in sheets. This is strippable paper. Pull it slowly, at a low angle, and the job is quick.
- The top layer comes off and a thin backing stays. This is peelable paper. Remove the top layer, then soak and scrape the backing.
- It will not lift. Vinyl, foil or painted-over paper resists water, so it needs scoring.
Score, soak and scrape
Scoring means making small perforations so water reaches the paste. Use a scoring tool with light pressure. Cutting through the paper on the drywall face leaves a rough surface to repair later, so use a light hand.
Wet the paper with warm water and a sponge or spray bottle, or with a wallpaper remover used as the label directs. Give it time to soak, then test a small patch. If it scrapes off easily, carry on; if it is stubborn, wet it again rather than forcing it.
Hold a plastic putty knife nearly flat and push the paper away in strips. On older walls, mist as you go, which is what EPA suggests with a "Spray mister or pump sprayer to mist areas before sanding, scraping, drilling, and cutting to keep the dust down"[2] in a lead-safe setup. Bag the wet paper as you work and do not let scraps dry on the floor.
Wash, repair and prime
Once the paper is off, the wall is covered in paste. Wipe it with a sponge and warm water until it no longer feels slick. Leftover paste can make new paint bubble or peel.
Let the wall dry fully, fill any gouges with joint compound, sand lightly and prime before you paint or hang new paper. If you plan to repaint, see how much it costs to have someone remove wallpaper first so you know when the job is worth handing off.
Stop and call a pro if
- The paint underneath is peeling or chipping in a pre-1978 house. EPA's advice on lead paint is to "Avoid DIY removal of lead-based paint"[1] and EPA recommends that homeowners hire lead-safe certified contractors for renovation projects in pre-1978 homes.[2]
- The wall is plaster or an older material you cannot identify. EPA says "A trained and accredited asbestos professional should take samples for analysis" and that "Taking samples yourself is not recommended."[3]
- The wall turns out to be wet, stained or soft behind the paper. That is a moisture problem to trace, not a wallpaper problem.
- The paper is high above a stairwell and would need a ladder or scaffold.
- You find wiring or plumbing exposed where the wall has crumbled.
If you hire someone, check the business's licence first. DPOR's guide says plainly: "Unlicensed contracting is against the law."[4]
Next steps
For more on this subcategory, browse painting answers or the painters on Loclis. If you would rather have the walls stripped for you, read should I hire someone to hang wallpaper, then describe the job and local licensed painters can quote it.
Common questions
- How do I tell if my wallpaper is strippable?
- Lift a corner at a seam with a putty knife. If it comes away in a whole sheet, it is strippable. If only the top layer comes away and a backing stays on the wall, it is peelable. If it will not lift, score it and soak it.
- Do I have to score wallpaper before removing it?
- Only when water cannot get through it, as with vinyl or painted-over paper. Score lightly so you do not cut through the paper on the drywall face.
- Could the paint under my wallpaper contain lead?
- If your home was built before 1978, it is more likely to have lead-based paint, according to EPA. Test the paint or assume it contains lead and use lead-safe work practices, or hire a lead-safe certified contractor.
- Can I paint over wallpaper instead of removing it?
- Sometimes, but paint can make seams show and can fail where the paper lifts. Removing the paper gives a more reliable finish, especially on vinyl or loose paper.
- What should I do about paste left on the wall?
- Wash it off with warm water and a sponge until the wall no longer feels slick, then let it dry fully before priming.
Sources
- [1] Protect Your Family from Sources of Lead, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Checked October 27, 2026.
- [2] Renovation, Repair and Painting Program: Do-It-Yourselfers, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Checked October 27, 2026.
- [3] Protect Your Family from Exposures to Asbestos, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Checked October 27, 2026.
- [4] What You Should Know Before You Hire a Contractor, Virginia Board for Contractors, DPOR. Checked October 27, 2026.
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