Should I repair or replace my original wood windows?

Repair is the default; replace when the wood is gone

Repair original wood windows when the frame and sash are mostly sound. Technical Preservation Services recommends the retention and repair of original windows whenever possible.^[1] It also says the repair and weatherization of existing wooden windows is more practical than most people realize.^[1]

Replace when rot has gone through the sash or frame, or the window cannot be made to work. The decision is cheaper to make after a proper inspection than after a sales visit.

What to look for

Moisture is the primary contributing factor in wooden window decay.^[1] So inspect for where water gets in:

• Putty and glazing. The glazing putty should be checked for cracked, loose, or missing sections which allow water to saturate the wood.^[1]
• Paint. Blistered, cracked or peeling paint on the sill and lower rails is where decay starts.
• Wood condition. Test the sill and lower rails with an awl or ice pick, as the Park Service describes.^[1] Wood that crumbles or is spongy is a bigger repair than wood that is only dull.
• Operation. A sticking or drifting sash is often a cord, track or paint problem, not a dead window. See how to fix a window that will not stay open.

Drafts and energy

Old windows are drafty, and ENERGY STAR lists single-pane windows, and windows with air leaks or drafts and degraded sills and sashes,^[2] among its reasons to replace them. But that is only part of the picture. Weatherstripping and storm windows address a lot of it.

The Park Service says exterior storm windows should be investigated whenever feasible because they are thermally efficient, cost-effective, reversible, and allow the retention of original windows.^[1] It notes that the U-values for single glazed wooden windows range from 0.88 to 0.99, and that the addition of a storm window should reduce these figures to a range of 0.44 to 0.49.^[1] The lower the number, the better.

If you do replace

Replacement is a bigger job than repair. ENERGY STAR says that if your home was built before 1978 and the original windows are replaced, the installer should follow lead paint protocols during the removal of the old windows.^[2] The EPA says anyone paid to perform work that disturbs paint in housing and child-occupied facilities built before 1978 must be certified in lead-safe work practices.^[3]

If the work you are considering is valued at $1,000 or more, a valid Virginia Contractor's License is required for the license category in which the contractor is to work.^[4] Ask for the quote in writing, and ask each bidder to price repair and replacement for the same windows. For what drives the cost, see how much window repair costs in Virginia.

Stop and call a pro if

• The sill, sash or frame is soft or crumbling. That is carpentry, and you need a price for repair and for replacement.
• The window is above the first floor. Do not work from a ladder.
• The house was built before 1978 and the paint is failing. A paid contractor must be lead-safe certified.^[3]
• The job is valued at $1,000 or more. Virginia requires a licensed contractor.^[4]

Getting help in Virginia

More guides are on the Home Repair answers page, and local pros are listed under Doors and Windows on Loclis.

When you are ready, describe the windows and local pros will quote repair or replacement in writing.