How do I fix nail pops in drywall?

A nail pop is a small raised circle on a wall or ceiling where a drywall nail has backed out and pushed the paint up. Fixing it takes three moves: secure the board with screws so the nail cannot pop again, set the loose nail below the surface, and fill, sand, prime and paint over the spot. It is a small job, but skipping the screws is why pops come back.

Why nails pop

A nail that pops up and shows through drywall is known as a "nail pop."^[1] The usual cause is a board that is not held tight to the framing. USG puts it this way: all gypsum panels should be tight and secure against the framing members or underlying substrate.^[3] Loose panels will create “fastener pops” and joint cracks.^[3]

That is why hammering the nail back in is not a lasting fix. The board is still loose, and the nail works its way out again. The repair has to pull the board back against the stud.

How to fix a nail pop

Start by counter-sinking a nail pop with a hammer.^[1] Tap it lightly, so the head sits just below the paper surface without punching through it.

To prevent nail pops from happening again, put sheetrock screws into the stud, on each side of the nail pop.^[1] Find the stud first: the popped nail is already in it, so the screws go a short distance above and below the nail along the same line. Drive each screw until the head sits just below the surface without tearing the paper. Drywall screws should be driven to penetrate just below the gypsum panel surface without breaking the surface paper.^[3] A screw driven too far leaves a dent that shows through the paint.

Fill, sand and prime

Fill nail pop holes as you would a screw hole or any other minor imperfection.^[1] Remove dust and debris with a vacuum or brush first, because dust can affect how well the filler dries and grips the surface of the wall.^[1] Press the compound in with a putty knife and draw the knife firmly across the spot so the surface is left flat.

USG gives the sequence for a popped nail: cover with patching compound, let it dry, add a second coat if necessary, then sand and prime when dry.^[2] Apply over dry surfaces only and allow each coat to dry before applying another coat.^[2] At 75 °F and 50% relative humidity, allow approx. 24 hr. between applications.^[2] A spackling such as DAP DryDex changes color when it is dry, in approximately 1 to 5 hours depending on temperature, humidity and depth of fill, and the manufacturer says one application is usually sufficient for small repairs less than 1/8" in depth.^[4]

To sand without a cloud of dust, sand with a wet sponge to eliminate dust and scuffing of paper.^[2] If dry sanding, use 150-grit sandpaper, 220-grit abrasive mesh cloth or finer.^[2] Wipe the wall with a damp cloth and let it dry.

Prime the patch before you paint. Priming seals the filler and helps prevent it from absorbing the new paint.^[1] Skip this step and the repaired spots show as dull patches in the finished wall, a problem called flashing.

Matching the paint

Spot-painting only the patch often shows. If you can, paint the whole wall from corner to corner. If you only touch up, match the color and the sheen, and use the same kind of roller or brush you used before: the flatter the finish, the easier it is to touch up, and the glossier the finish, the more challenging.^[6]

When pops keep coming back

A few pops in a new house are normal as the framing settles and dries. A wall or ceiling with many pops, or pops that return after screws, points to something other than a stray nail. In that case a drywall finisher can reset the fasteners across the whole surface. That job is cheaper and tidier before you repaint than after.

Stop and call a pro if

• Pops are all over a ceiling or a large wall. The board may be loose across a wide area, and a ceiling pop that lets go can bring compound or paper down with it.
• There is a water stain, soft spot or bubbling near the pop. Moisture is the cause, and filling it hides the problem. Find the leak first.
• The drywall is crumbling. EPA advises that a home with damaged building materials, such as crumbling drywall, may warrant inspection by a trained and accredited asbestos professional, and says that if in doubt you should treat the material as if it contains asbestos and leave it alone.^[7]
• The paint is flaking in a home built before 1978. Any renovation, repair or painting project in a pre-1978 home or building that has lead-based paint can easily create dangerous lead dust.^[5] If you hire someone, EPA says anyone paid to perform work that disturbs paint in housing built before 1978 must be certified in lead-safe work practices.^[5]

Getting help in Virginia

If the repair grows beyond a few pops, read how much a patch and paint job costs in Virginia and whether to hire a painter or a drywall contractor. Browse more painting answers or the painting category.

When you want a pro to do it, describe the wall once and local contractors will quote it.