How do I install luxury vinyl plank flooring?
Prepare the subfloor first: clean, dry, and flat to within 3/16 inch over 10 feet. Undercut door casings, leave a perimeter expansion gap (the guide cited here says at least 1/4 inch in rooms under 2,500 sq. ft), then lock planks together row by row, staggering end joints at least 6 inches. Cover the gap with trim and never fasten through the planks.
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By Kasra Taheri, Founder, LoclisPublished
Researched and drafted with AI, then checked claim by claim against the sources listed below before it was published. Prices and rules change; the dates beside each source say when it was last checked.
Step by step
Read when to stop and call a pro, further down this page, before you start.
Step 1: Acclimate the planks
Store the cartons in the room where they will be installed, within the temperature range in the maker's guide, and let them acclimate if it says so.[1]
Step 2: Test the subfloor for flatness
Check the whole floor with a 6-foot level or straightedge against the 1/8 inch in 6 feet and 3/16 inch in 10 feet limits, and mark every dip and hump.[1]
Step 3: Fix and test the subfloor
Sand down high spots, fill low spots with patching compound, clean the floor, and test it for moisture before any plank goes down.[1]
Step 4: Undercut door casings
Use a handsaw or jamb saw with a scrap plank as a height guide, so the planks slide under the casings.[1]
Step 5: Set the spacers
Start at the longest wall, preferably an outside wall, and set spacers along it for the expansion gap.[1]
Step 6: Lay and lock the first two rows
Cut the first plank in half, angle each long edge into the plank beside it, then tap the short end home with a tapping block and mallet.[1]
Step 7: Continue row by row
Keep end joints at least 6 inches from the neighbouring row's joint with a random stagger.[1]
Step 8: Cut the last row to fit
Measure and cut the final row so it keeps the expansion gap at the wall.
Step 9: Finish the edges
Pull the spacers, install baseboard or quarter round to cover the gap, and sweep.[1]
Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) goes down fastest on a flat, clean, dry subfloor with a gap left around the edge. Prepare the subfloor first, because the manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure resulting from deficiencies caused by the sub-floor,[1] then lock the planks together row by row, stagger the end joints, and cover the gap with trim. Most of the time goes into the preparation, not the planks.
The details below follow one manufacturer's installation guide for rigid-core click LVP. Your planks come with their own guide, and its numbers beat anything here, because the warranty follows it.
Before you start
Keep the cartons in the room, not in a cold garage. The Malibu Wide Plank guide says to store the material in a climate-controlled environment between 55-85 F before installation, and to let it acclimate for 48 hours if needed.[1] Buy a little extra for cuts, and work from several cartons at a time to blend the material.[1]
You need a tape measure, a utility knife or saw, a rubber mallet, a pull bar, spacers, and a tapping block. The same guide warns that failure to use a tapping block properly can damage the locking profile.[1]
Get the subfloor right
All subfloors must be clean, flat, dry and structurally sound.[1] In practice:
- Flat. The guide asks for a subfloor flat within 1/8" over a 6' span, or 3/16" over a 10' span.[1] Lay a straightedge or a 6-foot level across the floor, mark the dips and humps, and sand or grind high spots and fill low ones with a patching compound.
- Clean. Sweep or vacuum. Pull staples and nails. Remove adhesive residue, and do not use chemical or solvent to do it.[1]
- Dry. Moisture testing is required.[1] On a wood subfloor, the guide says the moisture should not exceed 12%, and if high moisture is present, stop installation until the source is corrected.[1] Concrete must be fully cured for at least 60 days and tested, and 6 mil poly film is required over concrete.[1]
Old flooring can hide a hazard. The guide says never to sand and grind materials covered with lead paint, or containing asbestos.[1] If the old floor or its adhesive could be that old, stop and have it tested before touching it.
Lay the planks
Check which subfloors the guide approves: concrete, APA-rated plywood and OSB, particleboard, ceramic tile, and single-layer non-cushioned sheet vinyl.[1] Carpet and padding are not approved.[1]
Use a jamb saw or a handsaw to undercut all door jambs and door casings as needed,[1] so planks slide under them instead of being notched around. A scrap piece of flooring makes a good height guide.
Start along the longest wall, preferably an outside wall, with spacers set against it.[1] Perimeter expansion is required for floating floors; for areas less than 2500 sq. ft, the minimum expansion space is 1/4".[1] Do not remove the spacers until the installation is complete.[1]
Cut the first plank in half so the end joints do not line up, angle the long edge of each new plank into the previous row, and tap the short end home with the block and mallet. Try to space the end joints a minimum of 6 inches from the installed end joint,[1] with a random stagger so the floor does not show a pattern.
When the last row is in, pull the spacers and cover the gap with baseboard or quarter round, fastened to the wall and not through the planks. Do not install cabinets directly on a floating floor,[1] so run the floor up to the cabinet base and leave the gap there too.
Stop and call a pro if
- The subfloor is soft, stained or rotted. That points to a leak, and the floor will not fix it.
- The slab fails a moisture test, or the room floods or stays damp.
- The floor needs heavy leveling, a lot of patching, or work on joists.
- Old flooring or adhesive might contain asbestos, or the house might have lead paint.
- The job runs through several rooms, stairs, or around a lot of cabinets. A professional installer saves the cutting time and warranty risk.
Getting help in Virginia
Not sure whether the cost makes sense? See how much LVP costs installed in Virginia, whether vinyl plank or laminate suits a kitchen, and other flooring answers. To see local installers, browse flooring businesses on Loclis.
If you hire it out, DPOR advises you to solicit at least three bids for the work, all based on the same set of specifications.[2] When you would rather hand it over, describe your flooring project and licensed local contractors will quote it.
Common questions
- Do I need underlayment under LVP?
- Not always. The Malibu guide says its planks have a pre-attached underlayment and that adding more voids the warranty. Check your plank's guide before buying any.
- Can I install LVP over old flooring?
- Only over what the maker approves. The Malibu guide approves concrete, APA-rated plywood and OSB, particleboard, ceramic tile, and single-layer non-cushioned sheet vinyl, and does not approve carpet or padding.
- How big should the gap at the wall be?
- It depends on the product. The Malibu guide gives a 1/4 inch minimum for areas under 2,500 sq. ft and 3/8 to 1/2 inch for larger ones. Follow the guide that came with your planks.
- Why do I have to leave a gap?
- A floating floor moves with temperature. The Malibu guide says direct sunlight heat can cause the material to buckle or expand, so planks need room at every wall, cabinet and pipe.
Sources
- [1] Malibu Wide Plank Installation Guidelines for Rigid Core Luxury Vinyl Plank Floors (041922), Malibu Wide Plank, installation guide. Checked October 27, 2026.
- [2] What You Should Know Before You Hire a Contractor, Virginia Board for Contractors, Department of Professional and Occupational Regulation. Checked October 27, 2026.
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