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Should I install gutter guards myself or hire a company?

Do it yourself if every gutter is on a single storey, the gutters are sound, and you choose a guard that screws to the gutter or fascia instead of sliding under the shingles. Hire a licensed company for second-storey eaves, gutters that need repair first, roofs where the guard would mean lifting shingles, or any eave near the service wire.

Free to ask. Local shops send quotes, and you pay only when you book one.

By Kasra Taheri, Founder, LoclisPublished

Researched and drafted with AI, then checked claim by claim against the sources listed below before it was published. Prices and rules change; the dates beside each source say when it was last checked.

Step by step

Read when to stop and call a pro, further down this page, before you start.

  1. Step 1: Check the height

    Walk around the house and note whether every gutter run is on a single storey you can reach from a ladder on firm, level ground.

  2. Step 2: Look up for wires

    Find the service wire and any other line near the eaves, since no ladder position may come within 10 feet of an overhead high voltage line.[6]

  3. Step 3: Inspect the gutters

    Look for sagging runs, leaking joints and corners, and soft fascia, all of which need repair before a guard goes on.[4][3]

  4. Step 4: Read how the guard fastens

    Check whether the guard must slide under the shingles or can be bent and screwed to the gutter, drip edge or fascia instead.[2]

  5. Step 5: Gather the tools

    For a do-it-yourself job, have tin snips, a drill and driver, gloves, safety glasses, a tape measure and an extension ladder with a standoff.[1][2]

  6. Step 6: Get written bids

    If you hire, ask at least three licensed businesses for written bids on the same product, footage and repairs.[9]

  7. Step 7: Verify each licence

    Look up each bidder with the Board for Contractors instead of relying on a licence number printed on a card or an ad.[9]

  8. Step 8: Compare the warranties

    Set the product warranty beside the installer's labour warranty, since some product warranties cover parts only.[3]

Do the job yourself if every gutter is on a single storey, the gutters are in good shape, and the guard you buy screws to the gutter or fascia rather than sliding under the shingles. Hire a licensed company when any of those is not true: a second storey, gutters that need repair first, a guard that only installs under the roofing, or an eave you cannot reach without coming near the service wire.

What the job involves

Installing store-bought guards is mostly preparation and patience. You clean and flush the gutters, fix any leaks or sags, cut sections to length on the ground, then fasten them along the gutter one ladder position at a time, with extra care at corners and ends.

Gutterglove says most home installations of its store-bought guards can be completed in a day,[1] with a standard kit: tin snips, a drill with a hex driver for the self-tapping screws, gloves and safety glasses for cut stainless steel edges, a tape measure, and an extension ladder suited to your roof height, which it puts at 16 to 24 feet for most homes.[1] Its point is that the product itself needs no special skills, just safe access to the gutter line.[1] That is the whole decision. The work is easy; getting to it safely is not always.

A white coated-steel gutter guard with ridged channels and expanded-metal openings, lying on a concrete floor
Photo: Stilfehler, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

When doing it yourself makes sense

The eaves are one storey up. You can reach every run from a ladder on firm, level ground, set against the wall on a standoff rather than leaning on the gutter. Virginia Commonwealth University's ladder program has you pull the base out until its distance from the wall is one-fourth of the height to the point of support,[5] reminds users that the top two rungs of a straight or extension ladder are not for standing on,[5] and says to keep three points of contact while you climb.[5]

The gutters are sound. A guard protects a working gutter; it does not fix a failing one. Peak's instructions say to ensure all existing joints and corners are well sealed and not leaking,[4] and Gutterglove's say to complete any repairs to the gutters and downspouts first.[3] If yours sag or drip at the seams, that is a repair visit before it is a guard job.

The guard stays below the roofline. Many guards are designed to tuck under the first course of shingles. Gutterglove's own install guide warns: do not pry up your shingles or tear your underlayment.[2] The alternative it describes is to bend the back of the mesh up or down and screw it to the gutter, drip edge or fascia,[2] which keeps you off the roof entirely. Buy a product whose instructions include that method.

You will keep up with it. Every guard needs an occasional brush-off. If you are comfortable doing the install, the upkeep is usually easy too. See how to install gutter guards for the full process, and which guard handles pine needles if pines overhang the roof.

When to hire a company

Two storeys or more. The product steps are the same, but the safety setup is not. Gutterglove recommends an adequate safety harness above single-storey height, and scaffolding or a boom lift where ladder work is not safe for the structure.[1] Peak's warning is shorter: "When working above ground level use an appropriate safety harness."[4] Most homeowners do not own that gear. The manufacturer itself says, "If two-story ladder work isn't comfortable, hiring a handyman for the install is a reasonable option."[1]

Overhead wires. Virginia law bars work that puts a person, tool or ladder within 10 feet of an overhead high voltage line.[6] If the service drop crosses the eave you need to reach, leave that run to someone equipped for it.

A guard that has to go under the roofing. Lifting sealed or brittle shingles can damage them and may matter for a roof warranty. A company that installs guards regularly will know which fastening suits your roof.

Ice. If you also want heated cable to fight ice, that is electrical work. Use a licensed electrical contractor for any heated gutter or roof cable.[2]

The warranty you want. A do-it-yourself guard carries the maker's product warranty. Gutterglove's 25-year warranty on its Atlas guard covers parts only and does not include the cost of labour to reinstall,[3] and for professional installation it points buyers to a separate installer line.[1] An installer can add a labour warranty of its own, so ask what it covers and for how long. For what quotes usually include, read what gutter guards cost in Virginia.

How to hire well in Virginia

Check the licence. Under Va. Code § 54.1-1103, "No person shall engage in, or offer to engage in, contracting work in the Commonwealth unless he has been licensed",[8] and under § 54.1-1100 a Class C licence covers construction, removal, repair or improvement jobs with a single contract over $1,000 and under $30,000.[7] The Board for Contractors cautions that "A license number in an advertisement or on a business card does not necessarily mean the contractor's license is valid,"[9] so look the number up yourself.

Compare like with like. The board advises you to get at least three written bids using identical plans and specifications.[9] For guards, that means the same product, the same footage, and gutter cleaning and repairs priced as separate lines.

Get it in writing. The board's guide notes that Virginia law requires all licensed contractors to provide a written contract for residential work.[9] It suggests an initial deposit of no more than 10% of the total price or $1,000, whichever is less,[9] and says do not pay 100% of the bill until the work is 100% complete.[9]

Watch the door-to-door sale. Under the Virginia Home Solicitation Sales Act, if the sale was solicited at your home, you may cancel until midnight of the third business day after the day you sign.[10]

Ask about permits. Pittsylvania County's building department lists gutters among the work that does not need a building permit, while noting that setbacks and other zoning requirements may still apply.[11] Your own county or city keeps its own list, and the contract should say who is responsible if one is needed.

If you are still weighing whether guards are worth it at all, read whether gutter guards are worth the money.

Stop and call a pro if

  • Any gutter you need to reach is above the first storey.
  • A ladder position would bring you within reach of the service wire or another overhead line.
  • The guard you have can only be installed by lifting shingles, or the shingles are sealed, brittle or already lifting.
  • The gutters sag, leak at the seams, or pull away from soft or rotten fascia.
  • You want heated cable added for ice.

For more seasonal jobs, read the snow and seasonal answers, browse gutter guard installers, or look up snow and seasonal businesses around Blacksburg. When you are ready, describe the gutter guard job once and licensed local businesses quote it.

Common questions

Is installing gutter guards a good DIY project?
On a single-storey house with sound gutters, often yes. The work is cleaning, cutting sections on the ground and screwing them along the gutter. It stops being a good DIY job at the second storey, near the service wire, or where the only guard that fits has to go under the shingles.
Does a gutter guard installer need a Virginia licence?
Virginia requires a contractor's licence for contracting work, and a Class C licence covers single contracts over $1,000 and under $30,000. For any job above $1,000, ask for the licence number and check it with the Board for Contractors before you sign.
Do I need a permit to install gutter guards?
Usually not, but it depends on your locality. Pittsylvania County, for example, lists gutters among the work that does not need a building permit, while noting that zoning rules may still apply. A call to your own county or city building department settles it.
Will installing guards myself void a roof warranty?
A guard that slides under the shingles means lifting roofing, which may matter under some roof warranties, so read yours first. A guard screwed to the gutter, drip edge or fascia below the roofline leaves the shingles alone.
Can I cancel a gutter guard contract I signed at my door?
If the sale was solicited at your home, Virginia's Home Solicitation Sales Act generally gives you until midnight of the third business day after the day you sign to cancel. That leaves time to get competing written bids.

Sources

  1. [1] Gutter Guard by Gutterglove Stainless Steel FAQs, Gutterglove, Inc.. Checked October 27, 2026.
  2. [2] Stainless Steel Micro-Mesh Gutter Guard Install Guide, Gutterglove, Inc.. Checked October 27, 2026.
  3. [3] Atlas Gutter Guard Installation Guide, Gutterglove, Inc.. Checked October 27, 2026.
  4. [4] Gutter Guard Installation Instructions, Peak Innovations Inc.. Checked October 27, 2026.
  5. [5] Portable Ladder Safety Program, Virginia Commonwealth University, Safety and Risk Management. Checked October 27, 2026.
  6. [6] Va. Code § 59.1-408, Prohibited activities (Overhead High Voltage Line Safety Act), Code of Virginia, Virginia General Assembly. Checked October 27, 2026.
  7. [7] Va. Code § 54.1-1100, Definitions (Contractors), Code of Virginia, Virginia General Assembly. Checked October 27, 2026.
  8. [8] Va. Code § 54.1-1103, Necessity for license, Code of Virginia, Virginia General Assembly. Checked October 27, 2026.
  9. [9] What You Should Know Before You Hire a Contractor, Virginia Department of Professional and Occupational Regulation, Board for Contractors. Checked October 27, 2026.
  10. [10] Va. Code § 59.1-21.3, Cancellation of sale (Virginia Home Solicitation Sales Act), Code of Virginia, Virginia General Assembly. Checked October 27, 2026.
  11. [11] Do I Need a Permit, Pittsylvania County, Virginia, Building Inspections. Checked October 27, 2026.

Want a pro to handle it?

Describe the job once. Licensed local businesses send quotes, and you pay only when you book one.