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TroubleshootingConcrete & Flatwork

Why does new concrete crack?

Concrete shrinks as it sets and dries, and it cracks wherever that shrinkage is held back. Most early cracks come from joints that are missing, too far apart or cut too late, a poorly compacted base, too much water in the mix, the surface drying too fast on a hot or windy day, or too little curing. Many are cosmetic; wide, growing or uneven cracks need a look.

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By Kasra Taheri, Founder, LoclisPublished

Researched and drafted with AI, then checked claim by claim against the sources listed below before it was published. Prices and rules change; the dates beside each source say when it was last checked.

Step by step

Read when to stop and call a pro, further down this page, before you start.

  1. Step 1: Note when it appeared

    Write down whether the crack showed up during finishing, in the first few days, or weeks later, since the timing points to the cause.

  2. Step 2: Read the pattern

    Short, shallow, roughly parallel cracks that appear in the first hours on a hot, dry or windy day are typical of the surface drying too fast.[1]

  3. Step 3: Measure the joint spacing

    Measure between control joints and compare it with the spacing in the job's instructions; Quikrete cuts 1-inch control joints every 6 to 8 feet in a 4-inch slab.[4]

  4. Step 4: Check the joint depth

    Look at whether the joint grooves are deep enough; VDOT's sidewalk specification has control joints extend into the concrete at least 1/4 of its depth.[1]

  5. Step 5: Look where the slab meets other things

    Check for cracks running from corners, posts, steps or the house, where a strip of joint filler may be missing.[1]

  6. Step 6: Check whether one side dropped

    Run a straightedge across the crack; if one side sits lower, the base under it has probably settled.

  7. Step 7: Mark and date the crack

    Mark each end of the crack with a pencil line and the date, photograph it with a ruler, and check again in a few weeks.

  8. Step 8: Look at the drainage

    See whether downspouts or the yard send water onto or under the slab, since a base that stays wet can soften.

  9. Step 9: Ask for the job records

    Ask the contractor for the delivery ticket, which should record any water added on site, and how the slab was cured.

  10. Step 10: Put concerns in writing

    If the slab is new and the crack worries you, raise it with the contractor in writing so you both have a record.[5]

New concrete cracks because it shrinks. As concrete sets and dries it contracts, and when the slab is held back by the ground, a wall or its own weight, the shrinkage pulls it apart at the weakest point. Joints are simply pre-planned cracks, cut so the slab breaks along a straight line instead of across its face.

The reassuring part: many early cracks are hairline and cosmetic. The useful part is working out which kind you have.

The usual causes

The usual suspects are missing or badly placed joints, a poorly prepared base, too much water in the mix, the surface drying too fast, and too little curing. Here is how each one shows up.

Cracks that appear while the concrete is still wet

Short, shallow cracks that show up in the first hours, often roughly parallel to each other and stopping short of the edges, are usually plastic shrinkage: the surface is drying faster than the concrete beneath it can replace the moisture. A hot, breezy summer afternoon is enough. VDOT's specification says care shall be taken in hot, dry, or windy weather to protect the concrete from shrinkage cracking by applying the curing medium at the earliest possible time after finishing operations and after the sheen has disappeared from the surface.[1] Such cracks are usually shallow, but they can be weak points where later cracks start.

Joints too far apart, too shallow or cut too late

When a crack runs straight across a panel in the first weeks, the joints are often the reason. Quikrete's instructions cut 1-inch control joints into the slab every 6 to 8 feet with a grooving tool.[4] VDOT's sidewalk specification divides the slab into sections approximately 5 feet long with control joints that extend into the concrete at least 1/4 of its depth, and where slabs are more than 7 feet wide it forms joints lengthwise to obtain uniform blocks that are approximately square.[1] Long, narrow or L-shaped panels crack at the inside corner or across the middle.

Close-up of a broom-finished concrete slab where two saw-cut control joints cross
Photo: ChicagoConcrete (Chicagoland Concrete, Inc.), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Timing matters too: joints have to go in while the concrete is still workable, or soon after with a saw, before the slab picks its own crack. A joint that did its job has a crack you cannot see, at the bottom of the groove. Quikrete explains that control joints induce cracking at the base of the joint rather than across the face of the slab.[4]

Missing isolation joints

A slab poured tight against the house, a post, steps or another slab cannot move on its own. VDOT requires preformed joint filler between its concrete sidewalk and any adjacent fixed structure.[1] Without it at your slab, look for cracks running out from corners and posts.

The base

The ground carries the slab. VDOT's specification has its contractor excavate, shape and compact the earthen foundation to a firm, even surface before concrete goes down.[1] A crack where one side has dropped, often over a filled trench or a soft spot, is a base problem, not a surface one.

Mesh and fibers do not make up for a poor base. Quikrete says it may be desirable to add wire mesh when using its Concrete Mix, and that its Fiber-Reinforced Concrete Mix eliminates the need for wire mesh,[4] but joints, the base and curing do more to decide where cracks form.

Too much water, too little curing

Wet concrete is easier to place, which is why water gets added on site, but extra water weakens the mix and makes cracking more likely. Quikrete's data sheet starts with approximately 6 pints of clean water for each 80 lb bag.[3] Curing works the other way. Quikrete calls it one of the most important steps in concrete construction, says a poor curing job can ruin an otherwise well-done project, and says curing should continue for 5 days in warm weather at 70 F or higher, or 7 days in colder weather at 50 F to 70 F.[3]

Weather

Cold is a cracking risk too. VDOT's specification has its contractor prevent the temperature at the surface of the concrete from falling below 40 degrees F during the first 72 hours after placement, and says concrete damaged by frost or by freezing shall be removed and replaced at the contractor's expense.[1] A slab poured late in the year without protection can crack, scale or crumble.

Cracks that show up later

Most early cracks are cosmetic, but a few later ones matter. The Federal Highway Administration lists several concrete deterioration types that start as cracking.[2] D-cracking, from freezing and thawing of susceptible coarse aggregates, shows as cracking parallel to joints and cracks and later spalling, typically 10 to 15 years in. Alkali-silica reactivity shows as map cracking over the entire slab, from a reaction between alkalis in the pore solution and reactive silica in the aggregate. Corrosion of embedded steel shows as spalling and cracking over or around the steel, and adequate concrete cover reduces it.[2] Any of those calls for a professional look, as do rust stains along a crack.

What to do about it

A stable hairline crack in a new slab usually needs nothing more than watching. Mark the ends, date it, and photograph it next to a ruler, then look again after a few weeks and after the first hard freeze. If the slab is under a contractor's warranty, DPOR's advice is to address problems to the contractor in writing, and to file a written complaint with the Board for Contractors if the contractor refuses to make corrections.[5] Before you hire anyone for a new slab, the questions to ask a concrete contractor cover joints, base and curing.

If you are pouring your own, how to pour a small concrete slab covers joint layout and curing, and how long to wait before driving on new concrete covers the first weeks.

Stop and call a pro if

  • One side of the crack is higher than the other, or the slab has sunk or tilted.
  • The crack keeps getting wider between checks.
  • Cracks run toward the house, the foundation or the steps, or the slab is pulling away from them.
  • Water is getting into a basement or crawlspace near the crack.
  • You see rust stains or flaking that exposes stone in the surface.

Getting help in Virginia

Loclis lists DPOR-licensed concrete businesses with their licence number and class. Look up concrete contractors in Blacksburg, browse concrete repair, or see all concrete and hardscaping answers.

Describe the crack once and licensed local concrete businesses quote the repair.

Common questions

Is it normal for a new concrete slab to crack?
Some cracking is normal. Concrete shrinks as it sets and dries, so a slab will often crack somewhere, and many early cracks are cosmetic. Joints are there so the cracks happen in a straight line at the bottom of a groove instead of across the surface.
Why did my new driveway crack in the first week?
The usual causes at that age are joints that are too far apart, too shallow or cut too late, a base that was not compacted evenly, too much water in the mix, or the surface drying out before it was cured. A crack that crosses a panel from joint to joint usually means the joints did not do their job.
What are the short parallel cracks that showed up while the concrete was still wet?
Those are usually plastic shrinkage cracks: short, shallow and roughly parallel. They form when the surface dries faster than the concrete beneath it can replace the moisture, typically on hot, dry or windy days. VDOT's specification calls for the curing medium to go on at the earliest possible time after finishing to protect against this.
Does wire mesh stop concrete from cracking?
No. Quikrete says it may be desirable to add wire mesh with its Concrete Mix, and that its fiber-reinforced mix eliminates the need for mesh, but neither replaces joints, a well-compacted base and curing, which do more to control where cracks form.
When should I worry about a crack?
Get it looked at when one side is higher than the other, when it keeps getting wider, when it runs toward the house or steps, or when rust stains appear. Those point to settling, movement or corroding steel rather than ordinary shrinkage.

Sources

  1. [1] Road and Bridge Specifications 2020, Sections 217, 316 and 504, Virginia Department of Transportation. Checked October 26, 2026.
  2. [2] Concrete Pavement Preservation Guide, Second Edition (FHWA-HIF-14-004), Federal Highway Administration. Checked October 26, 2026.
  3. [3] QUIKRETE Concrete Mix No. 1101 data sheet, The QUIKRETE Companies. Checked October 26, 2026.
  4. [4] Concrete Sidewalks and Small Slabs (project instructions), The QUIKRETE Companies. Checked October 26, 2026.
  5. [5] What You Should Know Before You Hire a Contractor, Virginia Board for Contractors, DPOR. Checked October 26, 2026.

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