How do I make my house less attractive to termites?

Termites go where the soil is damp and wood is easy to reach, so a house is less attractive when the ground against it stays dry, no wood touches the soil, and nothing gives termites food or cover along the foundation. Reducing those conditions lowers the risk. It does not make a house termite-proof, and a licensed company's treatment and regular inspection are what protect it. Because termite work is licensed work in Virginia, this page describes the conditions to look out for and who should deal with each one.

Keep the foundation dry

Moisture matters more than anything else. Termites are attracted to moisture and are more likely to infest when the soil next to the foundation stays moist.^[1] Virginia Cooperative Extension's advice is that the area right against the foundation should be kept as dry as possible so termites prefer to live and forage elsewhere.^[5]

• Gutters, downspouts and splash blocks that carry roof water away from the house help,^[1][3] as does ground next to the foundation that slopes so surface water drains away.^[1]
• Short downspouts and eaves that do not extend far enough leave moisture at the base of the foundation.^[5]
• Leaking faucets, pipes and air conditioners add to the moisture.^[1][4] A plumber or HVAC contractor deals with those.
• Lawn sprinklers and irrigation systems oriented so they do not puddle water near the foundation are part of the picture too.^[1]

Keep wood off the soil

Wood touching soil gives termites food, moisture, shelter and a hidden way in. Wood siding and door and window frames should be at least six inches above ground level.^[1] Pressure-treated wood is still vulnerable,^[1] because termites get in through cracks and cut ends. Wooden steps and posts are a common weak spot too: posts or stairs set in concrete usually extend through it to the soil.^[1]

Ending that contact can mean regrading, pulling soil or mulch back from the foundation, cutting the bottom off wood lattice, or supporting steps and posts on a concrete base.^[1] Anything that changes how steps, a porch or a deck is supported is a contractor's job.

Go easy on mulch

Mulch is not banned, but it needs care. Termites are drawn to mulch mainly because it holds moisture; as food it is a poor choice for them.^[1] So the type of mulch makes little difference, and crushed stone or pea gravel attracts termites about as much as wood mulch.^[1]

• A couple of inches is usually enough.^[1]
• Mulch belongs several inches below wooden parts of the home.^[4]
• Mulch should never touch wood siding or the framing of doors and windows.^[1]

Take away food and hidden bridges

• Firewood. Firewood belongs several feet away from buildings and off the ground,^[4] never stacked against the foundation or kept in the crawl space.^[1]
• Stored wood and paper. Wood and paper stored under the house, in the basement or in the crawl space attract termites.^[4] Cardboard boxes on a crawl space floor count.
• Stumps and leftovers. Stumps and dead roots around and beneath the house, and any form boards left from construction, are worth removing where practical.^[1] Construction debris buried under a porch, stoop or slab draws large numbers of termites right next to the house.^[5]
• Plants. Vines, ivy and dense plantings touching the house should be avoided.^[1] A shrub planted today should be judged by its size in 10 to 15 years, not just how tall but how wide.^[2] Shrubs that block airflow through foundation vents are a problem.^[2][3]

Cracks and the crawl space

Termites can use cracks in a foundation footer as small as 1/32 inch to get in.^[2] EPA lists filling cracks in concrete foundations and gaps where utilities pass through the wall with cement, grout or caulk among the ways to reduce openings.^[3] Cracks can also indicate a settling problem,^[2] which is worth a contractor's look before anyone patches them.

Standing water or wet soil in a crawl space is a condition conducive to termites.^[2] Vapor barriers are installed by most pest control companies; plastic sheeting over most of the crawl space soil reduces evaporation from the soil and condensation on joists and subflooring.^[1] See how to lower humidity in a crawl space and why a crawl space gets wet. One caution if you already have a treatment: installing a drain will disrupt any termite treatment in the soil and can void a termite contract,^[2] so the termite company should be told first.

Protect a treatment you already have

The soil within 12 inches of the house should not be dug up.^[2] That strip is the area that was, or will be, treated for termites.^[2] Digging there, or putting new topsoil over it, lets termites bridge the treated soil.^[2] Flower beds that cover the foundation also hide it from inspection.

Houses have many hidden openings, which is why extension entomologists say the best way to prevent infestation is to protect the house with a termiticide.^[1] If a company already treated the house, keeping the warranty by paying the annual renewal means it will come back and retreat at no additional charge if termites return.^[1] Whether that renewal is worth it for you is covered in whether you need a termite bond in Virginia.

Look around a few times a year

Extension entomologists suggest that, even when a professional inspection is not done every year, owners do their own quick "mini-inspections" during routine maintenance chores.^[2] A look around the foundation and into the crawl space can catch mud tubes, soft or hollow wood, and winged termites or shed wings in spring; the signs of termites in a house shows what each looks like. Pest control companies often offer free termite inspections and will point out conditions that invite termites.^[1]

When to call a licensed pro

Treating soil or wood for termites is licensed work in Virginia: "No person may apply or recommend for use any pesticide commercially without a pesticide business license and the employment of a certified commercial applicator" responsible for safe application.^[6] Call a licensed termite company when:

• You find mud tubes, hollow wood or swarmers.
• The house has never been treated and has the conditions above.
• A treatment warranty is due for renewal, or you plan digging, a drain or a new patio along the foundation.
• You are buying a house and want an inspection.

Read how termite treatments work, browse termite treatment services or see more pest control answers. When you are ready, describe the job on Loclis so licensed businesses can inspect and quote it in writing.