How do I prepare my house for a home inspection?

The short answer

An inspector can only report on what they can reach and what is running. The more of the house they can see in one visit, the fewer "not inspected" lines end up in the buyer's report, and the fewer follow-up visits and questions you face before closing.

Preparation is mostly about access, working systems and paperwork. None of it needs tools beyond a step stool and a few batteries.

Make everything reachable

Virginia's rules define readily accessible as available for access without requiring moving or removing of any obstacles.^[1] In practice, a hatch behind stacked boxes or a panel behind a shelving unit can be skipped and written up as blocked.

Walk the house the way an inspector will:

• Attic. Clear the closet shelf or hallway below the hatch, and make sure a pull-down ladder opens fully.
• Crawl space or basement. Clear the access door, and move stored items away from the foundation walls, sump pit and main water shut-off.
• Mechanical equipment. Leave a clear path to the electrical panel, water heater, furnace or air handler, and the outdoor AC or heat pump unit.
• Garage. Here the automatic reverse on the garage door opener is tested only when it can be done safely without risking damage to the door, the opener, a nearby structure or stored items,^[2] so pull stored things back from the door.
• Outside. Adjacent, in the inspector's rules, means adjoining or within three feet of the house.^[1] The inspector looks at vegetation, trees, grading, drainage and retaining walls adjacent to the house,^[2] so move firewood, bins and stored items away from the walls.

Keep every system on

Systems that are turned off, winterized or otherwise secured do not have to be put into operating condition, and the report must state why they were not inspected.^[2] A vacant house with the water off or the heat shut down gets a thinner inspection, and the buyer may ask for a second visit later.

So leave the water, electricity and fuel service on, the thermostat working, and any pilot lights as they normally are. If a vacant house was winterized, have a licensed plumber put the water back into service a few days early, so any leak shows up before the inspector does.

Check the smoke alarms

Smoke alarms get special attention in Virginia. The report must say whether each readily accessible smoke alarm is in good working order,^[2] which means the alarm is securely attached, not physically damaged, and its test function works.^[1]

The U.S. Fire Administration's routine is simple: Test the alarm monthly, replace the battery in a 9-volt alarm at least once a year, and replace the whole alarm every 10 years.^[6] Press each test button now and put in fresh batteries where they are replaceable. A hardwired alarm is a different matter: "Only qualified electricians should install hardwired smoke alarms."^[6]

Gather the paperwork

Inspectors and buyers both ask about history. Set out permits and final inspections for past work, repair receipts, roof and appliance warranties, HVAC service records, septic pumping and inspection records, and any earlier radon results.

Some paperwork is required of you as the seller. Under Virginia law the owner of residential property must give the buyer a residential property disclosure statement.^[3] For most homes built before 1978, federal rules also require you to give the buyer EPA's lead pamphlet, disclose what you know about lead-based paint and lead hazards, and hand over any records or reports you have.^[4] Keep a signed copy of those disclosures for three years after the sale.^[4]

If a radon test is part of the visit

If you already tested, share the result, but a buyer may ask for a new test if the last one is not recent, for example within two years, if you have renovated since, or if the buyer plans to use a lower level than the one tested.^[5]

During a short-term test, closed-house conditions apply: keep windows closed, keep doors closed except for normal coming and going, and do not run fans or other machines that bring in outside air.^[5] Run the heating and cooling normally during the test, and do not disturb the test device.^[5] Our guide on how to test a home for radon covers the test in more detail.

What not to do

Do not paint over stains, hide damage behind furniture, or rush a repair the day before. Inspectors are trained to look for fresh patches, and a disclosed, explained problem is usually easier to negotiate than one a buyer discovers. For what inspectors tend to find, see the most common problems found in a home inspection.

Stop and call a pro if

• You smell gas, or a gas appliance will not stay lit. Call your gas utility or a licensed gas fitter rather than relighting or adjusting anything yourself.
• A breaker keeps tripping, an outlet or switch plate feels warm, or lights flicker. Call a licensed electrician; do not open the panel.
• A hardwired smoke alarm is missing, chirping after a battery change, or more than 10 years old.
• You find active leaks, soft floors or widespread mold. If mold covers more than about 10 square feet, or there has been a lot of water damage, EPA points to professional remediation guidance rather than a quick clean-up.^[7]
• The water or heat has to be restored in a winterized house.

You can browse more inspection answers or find home inspection services. Buying instead of selling? Describe the house once and licensed home inspectors near you can quote.