How do I protect furniture in a long-distance move?
Photograph each piece, take off legs, shelves and glass, and empty drawers. Wrap every piece in at least one moving blanket and hold it with stretch wrap over the blanket, never on bare wood. Box mirrors and glass with tape and corner guards, check the condition notes on the mover's inventory, choose coverage that fits what the furniture is worth, and inspect it before signing at delivery.
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By Kasra Taheri, Founder, LoclisPublished
Researched and drafted with AI, then checked claim by claim against the sources listed below before it was published. Prices and rules change; the dates beside each source say when it was last checked.
Step by step
Read when to stop and call a pro, further down this page, before you start.
Step 1: Photograph each piece
Take dated photos of every side of each valuable piece, close up on any existing scratches, so you can show its condition later.
Step 2: Empty and lighten
Empty drawers, cabinets and shelves, and carry loose contents in boxes rather than inside the furniture.
Step 3: Take off what comes off
Unscrew legs, feet, shelves and glass panels where the piece is designed for it, and keep the original hardware.
Step 4: Bag the hardware
Put screws and bolts in a labelled zip bag, tape it to the underside of the piece, and keep any assembly sheet with it.
Step 5: Secure doors and drawers
Hold doors and drawers that stay on the piece closed with stretch wrap or a strap, not tape on the finish.
Step 6: Blanket every piece
Drape at least one moving blanket over each item, and two or three over large pieces such as dining tables, headboards or bookcases.
Step 7: Wrap over the blanket
Wrap stretch wrap from top to bottom over the blanket, overlapping each pass slightly so the blanket stays put.
Step 8: Guard the corners
Add cardboard or foam corner protectors on tables, dressers and frames, where pieces most often get knocked.
Step 9: Box glass and mirrors
Tape an X of painter's tape across glass, wrap it in bubble pack with corner protectors, and pack it in a mirror box.
Step 10: Declare valuable pieces
List any antique or piece worth more than $100 per pound in writing before loading, or the mover may limit what it pays.[1]
Step 11: Check the inventory notes
Read the condition notes the driver writes for each piece and add your disagreement in writing before you sign.
Step 12: Inspect at delivery
Unwrap or look over each piece as it comes off the truck and note any new damage on the inventory before signing.
Furniture on a long-distance move rides for days, often with other people's shipments, and is loaded and unloaded more than once. Most damage comes from three things: parts that stick out, surfaces rubbing against each other, and pieces shifting in the truck. The fixes are simple: take off what comes off, pad every surface, hold the padding in place, and make sure the paperwork records each piece's condition. This guide covers both packing yourself and checking a crew's work.
Before anything is wrapped
Photograph each good piece from every side, with close-ups of existing scratches, chips and loose joints. Those dated photos matter if you need to make a claim.
Empty drawers, cabinets and bookcases. A full dresser is heavy and racks as it is carried, and loose contents slide and scratch the inside. Pack the contents in boxes instead.
Take off parts the piece is designed to lose: table legs, bed rails, removable shelves, glass tops and doors, and mirrors on dressers. Put the screws and bolts in a labelled zip bag and tape it to the underside of the piece, or keep all the hardware bags in one box that travels with you. Leave glued or delicate joints alone; forcing an old piece apart can do more harm than the move.
Pad every surface
The standard tool is the moving blanket, also called a furniture pad. Plan on at least one blanket per item, and two or three for larger pieces such as dining tables, headboards or bookcases. For a long haul with several handlings, thicker quilted pads protect better than thin ones.
To wrap a piece, drape the blanket so it covers the piece evenly on all sides, then wrap stretch wrap from top to bottom, overlapping each layer slightly so the blanket does not shift. Keep the stretch wrap over the blanket rather than on bare wood, lacquer or leather; the blanket does the cushioning and the wrap only holds it on. Hold drawers and doors closed with wrap or a strap rather than tape on the finish.
Corners and legs take the knocks. Add cardboard or foam corner guards on tables, dressers and frames before the blanket goes on.
Glass, mirrors, lamps and screens
For mirrors and framed glass, apply painter's tape in an X across the glass, wrap it in bubble pack with corner protectors, and stand it on edge in a mirror or picture-frame box. Never lay glass flat.
For lamps, remove the shade and bulb and wrap each part separately. For a TV, use the original packaging if you still have it. For smaller fragile pieces in boxes, pad every side so nothing touches the walls of the box.
Pack carefully, because it affects your claim. Improper packing of boxes you pack yourself is one of the acts that can limit or reduce the mover's liability.[1] For anything irreplaceable, ask the mover to pack or crate it.
On the truck
On a professional move, the crew pads and loads. On a rental truck, load the heaviest furniture first against the front wall, stand mattresses and tabletops on edge along the sides, and strap each tier. Folded blankets in the gaps between items add stability and keep things from sliding. How to load a moving truck so nothing breaks goes through it in order.
If your furniture will sit in storage on the way, ask where the warehouse is and whether it is climate-controlled. Wood, veneer and upholstery do better out of damp, hot spaces.
The paperwork protects the furniture too
The inventory is your record of each piece's condition. The mover must list any damage or unusual wear on each item when it prepares the inventory,[1] you and the mover both sign each page, and you have the right to note any disagreement.[1] Read those notes; drivers sometimes mark everything "scratched". Your ability to recover for loss or damage may depend on the notes made on that form.[1]
Coverage decides what a damaged piece is worth to the mover. Under the free option, the mover is liable for no more than 60 cents per pound per article.[1] Full Value Protection means the mover repairs the piece, replaces it with one of like kind and quality, or pays you the cost, subject to the exceptions in its tariff.[1] Movers may limit liability for any item worth more than $100 per pound, such as antiques or oriental rugs, unless you list it on the shipping documents.[1]
At the other end, at delivery the mover must let you check that the same items arrived, see their condition, and note missing or damaged items in writing.[2] Look at each piece as it comes off, and do not sign until the notes are right. If you find damage later, you have 9 months from delivery to file a written claim;[1] see what to do if movers damage your furniture.
Stop and call a pro if
- A piece is an antique, a piano, a grandfather clock or a large glass or marble top. Ask for specialty crating.
- A piece is too heavy or awkward to carry safely on your stairs. Let an experienced crew judge it before anyone gets hurt.
- A recliner, adjustable bed or appliance is hard-wired or needs gas or water disconnected. Leave that to a licensed tradesperson.
- Furniture has to come down over a railing or through a window. That is a job for a crew with the right gear.
More help
For the rest of the move, see how to plan a long-distance move. Browse more junk removal and moving answers, or describe your move and get quotes.
Common questions
- How many moving blankets do I need?
- U-Haul's guide suggests at least one per item, and two or three for larger pieces such as dining tables, headboards or bookcases. Walk through the house, count the pieces you will wrap, and add extras for anything oversized or fragile.
- Can I put plastic wrap straight onto wood furniture?
- Use it over a moving blanket rather than on bare wood or leather. The blanket cushions the piece and the wrap holds the blanket in place; wrap alone gives no padding against knocks.
- Should I take furniture apart before a long-distance move?
- Take off legs, shelves and glass where the piece is designed to come apart, since protruding parts break most easily. Leave glued or delicate joints alone, and bag and label the hardware so the piece goes back together at the other end.
- Will the mover pack my furniture?
- Interstate movers usually pad-wrap furniture as part of loading, and many sell packing of boxes and fragile items as an extra service. Ask what is included in the estimate, and ask for crating of anything very valuable or fragile.
- What if a piece arrives damaged?
- Note the damage on the inventory before you sign, take photos, and file a written claim with the mover. Federal rules give you 9 months from delivery to file, and the mover must acknowledge the claim within 30 days.
- Is the free 60 cents per pound coverage enough for furniture?
- Rarely for good furniture. A 100-pound dresser would be covered for no more than $60 under that option. Full Value Protection costs more but means repair, replacement or payment, subject to the mover's tariff and any deductible.
Sources
- [1] Appendix A to Part 375, Your Rights and Responsibilities When You Move, Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration, via the Electronic Code of Federal Regulations. Checked October 27, 2026.
- [2] 49 CFR Part 375, Transportation of Household Goods in Interstate Commerce; Consumer Protection Regulations, Electronic Code of Federal Regulations. Checked October 27, 2026.
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