Should I restore an antique or leave it original?

Leave the original finish alone when it is sound, repair what is structurally broken, and restore more only when the finish or the piece is truly beyond saving. Museum practice treats preservation as the starting point: if the existing finish is original, or at least appropriate, and salvageable, preservation is the preferred course.^[1] Before you strip, sand or glue anything on a piece that might be valuable, get a restorer or conservator to look at it.

Why original is usually the safer choice

Most of what makes an antique worth owning is what cannot be put back: the surface a maker applied, the wear of generations and the marks of use. The National Park Service's museum handbook describes the conservator's approach as keeping that evidence. The conservator preserves important signs of use.^[1]

That includes patina. Patina refers to the distinctive appearance of older finishes.^[1] A worn finish with warm tones and a soft shine is not the same as a failed one, though there is a fine line between patina and a damaged finish.^[1] A restorer can tell you which you have.

Restoration can also go wrong in ways that are hard to reverse. Poorly done repairs are another common cause of damage to wooden objects,^[1] original finishes may be removed mistakenly, and future conservation treatment may be made more difficult by the use of irreversible materials.^[1]

What is worth fixing

Not everything should be left. Structural problems get worse if ignored: loose joints, splits and lifting veneer. A conservator's structural repairs aim at restoring structural integrity, but not necessarily appearance,^[1] and they are done so that repairs are reversible so that they can be removed if necessary.^[1] That is a good standard for any repair on a piece you want to keep.

Cosmetic wear is a different matter. A scratch, a faded top or a dull shine does not threaten the piece. Cleaning and waxing, if the finish is stable,^[1] usually improves the look without removing anything. Our guide to cleaning antique furniture without ruining its value covers the safe version.

Hardware is part of the same decision. Polishing brass can damage both the hardware and the surrounding wood,^[1] so original pulls are best left with their tarnish unless a restorer advises otherwise.

When restoring is the right call

Refinishing is preferred if the existing finish is either inappropriate or almost completely worn away.^[1] That is the case for a surface that is mostly bare, badly damaged by water or heat, or covered by a later coat that hides the original. Even then, the handbook says the curator and the conservator should carefully consider the decision to refinish,^[1] and a small area is usually left intact to document the finish history of the object.^[1] Ask your restorer to do the same.

Pieces that are ordinary, not rare, and that you want to use daily are a different case from a family heirloom or a documented maker's piece. A sturdy farmhouse table you eat at may be worth refinishing; a signed or early piece deserves a specialist's opinion first. If you are unsure which yours is, assume it is the second kind until someone looks.

Safety on old painted pieces

If the piece is painted and old, think about lead before you think about the finish. The EPA lists refinishing old furniture among the jobs that can put you in contact with lead.^[2] The federal ban on lead paint covers furniture articles for consumer use that bear lead-containing paint, and applies to products manufactured after February 27, 1978,^[3] so an older painted piece may have lead in its paint.

Stripping is a hazard as well. The CPSC advises that if work must be done indoors under low ventilation conditions, consider having the work done professionally instead of attempting it yourself.^[4]

If something comes loose

If a part comes off, do not force it back. If small parts become detached, place them in a closable polyethylene bag with a label,^[1] and keep the bag with the piece. Do not tack the loose part back into place.^[1] When a temporary reattachment is needed, museum guidance names a reversible glue (for example, hide glue),^[1] but ask a restorer what they would use.

Stop and call a pro if

• The piece might be valuable, signed, early or an heirloom. Get an assessment before any work.
• You think the finish is original, especially a wax finish. Do not clean or strip it yourself.
• It is old and painted. Lead changes how it must be handled.
• The veneer is lifting, joints are loose or the wood is split. Get a repair quote before a cosmetic one.
• You have nowhere ventilated to strip it. Pay a shop to do it.

Getting help in Virginia

For the money side, read what antique furniture restoration costs in Virginia and whether refinishing old furniture is worth it. Browse more furniture repair answers, antique restoration requests or small repair services.

When you are ready, describe the piece once and local restorers can quote it.