Why did my outlet stop working?

An outlet usually stops working for one of three reasons: a protective device upstream has shut off the power, a connection in or feeding the outlet has gone loose or failed, or the outlet itself has worn out. The first is the most common and is the simplest to rule out. The other two can be fire hazards, and sorting out which you have means opening the wiring, which is a licensed electrician's job.

A protective device has shut it off

Most home circuits have more than one thing that can cut power to an outlet. The breaker (or fuse) in the service panel protects the circuit, and a GFCI receptacle sits partway along it. Leviton describes the load wiring of a GFCI as delivering power from the GFCI to another receptacle in the circuit,^[2] so a single tripped GFCI in a bathroom, garage or kitchen can kill outlets elsewhere that look unrelated.

A GFCI is built to trip on a ground fault, which Leviton defines as electricity passing through a person's body to reach the ground instead of following its normal safe path, for example from a defective appliance.^[2] It does not protect against circuit overloads or short circuits,^[2] which is the job of the breaker. So a dead outlet can mean a GFCI tripped on a faulty appliance, or a breaker tripped because the circuit was asked to carry too much. The U.S. Fire Administration's advice is simple: do not overload outlets.^[5]

The safe first move is the one in what to check before calling an electrician about a dead outlet: look for a tripped GFCI and test it. The CPSC's procedure is to plug in a light, press test and see whether the light goes out, then press reset and see whether it comes back on; if either does not happen, replace the GFCI.^[1] If the power comes back and stays on, the cause was probably a one-time trip.

A GFCI that will not reset is telling you something too. Leviton says GFCIs contain a lockout feature that prevents reset if there is no power being supplied to the GFCI, if the line and load connections are reversed, or if it cannot pass its internal test.^[2] Each of those is a wiring or equipment fault, not a button problem.

A connection has gone loose or failed

If nothing is tripped and the outlet is still dead, the usual suspect is a connection. The CPSC says improperly operating outlets or switches may indicate an unsafe wiring condition, and that a loose screw holding a wire or a worn out switch can lead to electrical arcing, overheating, or a fire.^[1] It adds that a loose connection cannot carry much current without getting hot.^[1]

That is why one dead outlet can take others with it. Outlets on a circuit are commonly linked one to the next, so a bad connection at one device can cut off everything downstream of it. You will often see this as a run of dead outlets in one room, an outlet that works only when you move the plug, or one that fails and recovers.

Signs that point to a connection problem:

• The outlet works intermittently, or only when the plug is pressed to one side.
• Other outlets or lights on the same stretch of wall are out too.
• The outlet or plug is warm. The CPSC says unusually warm outlets or switches may indicate an unsafe wiring condition, such as a loose electrical connection, and to stop using them until an electrician checks the problem.^[1]
• There is a buzz, a burning smell or discoloured plastic.

The outlet has worn out

Outlets do wear. The contacts that grip the plug lose their tension over years of use, and a plug that slips out or sits at an angle makes poor contact. The CPSC says loose-fitting plugs can cause overheating and fires,^[1] and the U.S. Fire Administration says to replace wall outlets if plugs do not fit snugly.^[5] A worn outlet can fail completely or only work when held just so.

What not to do

Do not pull the outlet out of the wall to look, and do not probe it with a tester you are unsure how to use. The wires behind it can be live, and Leviton's own instruction sheet tells the installer to place the breaker in the OFF position and check that the power is OFF at both outlets, and if the power is not OFF, to stop work and call an electrician.^[2] If you have already found a tripped GFCI or breaker and the power is back, leave it there and keep an eye on it. If it trips again, the circuit is reporting a fault.

When to call a licensed pro

Call a licensed electrician if more than one outlet is dead and no GFCI or breaker will bring them back, a GFCI will not reset, the outlet is warm, scorched or smells of burning, or the problem keeps returning. When to call an electrician for a dead outlet sorts these by urgency.

Opening an outlet or working on the wiring behind it is tradesman work. The Code of Virginia says "no individual shall engage in, or offer to engage in, work as a tradesman as defined in § 54.1-1128 unless he has been licensed",^[3] and DPOR says a valid Virginia Contractor's License is required when the work is valued at $1,000 or more.^[4] A license number in an advertisement or on a business card does not necessarily mean the contractor's license is valid,^[4] so look it up before you agree to anything.

To write a useful request, note which outlets are dead, whether a GFCI or breaker has tripped, and when it started. Cost depends on where the fault is found, not just on the outlet; what fixing a dead outlet costs in Virginia explains the drivers and what to ask for in a written quote.

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When you are ready, describe the dead outlet once and licensed local electricians quote it.