Why is my new dishwasher leaking after installation?

Most new dishwashers that leak have an installation problem, not a defective machine. The usual causes are a supply connection that is loose or missing its rubber washer, a drain hose that is kinked, cut or not fully seated, a dishwasher that is not level so the door does not seal, or a door that rubs the cabinets. The other common cause is suds from the wrong detergent. Where the water shows up tells you which.

Why installation is the first suspect

A dishwasher install touches three trades at once. GE's own instructions say that "Installation of this dishwasher requires basic mechanical, electrical and plumbing skills."^[1] A small miss in any of them can show up as water on the floor in the first few cycles. GE also states that "Product failure due to improper installation is not covered under the GE Appliance Warranty."^[1] That is a good reason to call the installer back first, before a manufacturer's technician.

Where the water is, and what it usually means

Under or behind the dishwasher. These leaks usually come from the connections in the cabinet space. Whirlpool's guidance for a leak underneath includes making sure that the rubber washer is properly seated in the fitting at every connection point.^[3] Worn, cracked or loose supply lines and drain tubes are a common source of leaks behind or under the cabinet.^[2] On the drain side, GE's instructions call for the drain hose to be pushed fully onto the dishwasher's drain port and clamped, and warn that a nicked or cut hose can leak.^[1] They add that the hose must not be kinked under the dishwasher.^[1]

Water that will not drain. If the dishwasher is drained through a garbage disposal, the disposal has a knockout plug that must come out during installation. GE puts it in capitals: "DISHWASHER WILL NOT DRAIN IF PLUG IS LEFT IN PLACE."^[1] Ask the installer to confirm the plug was removed.

At the bottom of the door. Levelling is the usual suspect. GE says the dishwasher must be level, and its final checks say that if the door hits the tub, the dishwasher needs levelling.^[1] Whirlpool lists leveling side to side and front to back as a fix for water at the bottom of the door.^[2] Position matters too: "A leak around the door could be caused by door rubbing or hitting against adjacent cabinets."^[1]

Along the front edge or corners. Whirlpool's advice: "If water appears along the front edge or corners, inspect the door gasket."^[2] It also says to check that no utensils or dishes are blocking the door from closing properly.^[2] A damaged or dirty gasket is worth ruling out early on a new machine.

Suds coming out of the door. This one is not the installer. Whirlpool notes that "household detergents made for hand washing can generate excessive suds when used in dishwashers."^[4] Too much detergent, or residue from pre-washing dishes with dish soap or spray-on cleaners, can do the same.^[4] Whirlpool's advice for a tub full of suds is to stop the cycle by pressing Cancel or opening the door, and clean up any overflow so water does not sit and seep into cabinets or floorboards.^[4]

Under the middle of the machine, or a tub that overfills. Whirlpool notes that "A sticking inlet valve can overfill the tub."^[2] It adds: "If water pools under the center or rear, the pump, diverter, or motor shaft seal may be worn."^[2] On a brand-new unit those can point to a part fault, so contact the manufacturer as well as the installer and ask what its warranty covers.

What you can safely check

Without moving the dishwasher or opening any panel, you can narrow it down:

• Confirm you used automatic dishwasher detergent, not hand dish soap, and a normal dose.
• Look at whether anything sticks out of the racks into the door seal.
• Open the sink cabinet during a cycle and look for drips at the hose connections, with a flashlight and dry paper towel.
• Note when the water appears: during filling, washing or draining. Installers find the fault faster with that detail.

Whirlpool's advice for a leak that keeps going: "If an active leak continues, switch off power at the breaker and shut the water supply."^[2] Water left sitting can seep into cabinets or floorboards.^[4]

Who fixes it in Virginia

Reconnecting supply lines, re-routing the drain or opening the junction box is plumbing and electrical work. In Virginia no individual may do plumbing or electrical work for the public for pay without a tradesman licence,^[6][5] and the home improvement (HIC) specialty does not cover electrical, plumbing, HVAC or gas fitting work.^[7] A handyman who set the unit and levelled it can come back for levelling or a door that rubs, but a connection leak belongs to a licensed plumber, or to the manufacturer's service if a part has failed.

When to call a licensed pro

Whirlpool's own line is clear: "Schedule service if you suspect a failing water inlet valve, persistent overfill, cracked tub, or worn pump/diverter seal, or if leaks continue after gasket replacement and leveling."^[2] Call sooner, and keep the dishwasher off, when:

• Water is reaching the electrical connection at the front of the unit, or a breaker trips.
• The leak is at the supply valve or a connection under the sink.
• The floor in front of the dishwasher feels soft, or the cabinet base is swelling.
• The dishwasher will not drain at all.

For leaks at the sink itself, see why water is leaking under a kitchen sink, and to stay ahead of the next one, see how to check appliance hookups for leaks. Browse more handyman answers or dishwasher repair. If the installer will not come back, describe the leak once and licensed businesses will quote.