How do I check appliance hookups for leaks?

Checking appliance hookups for leaks is mostly a matter of looking, with good light, a dry paper towel and a nose for gas. The water side is a simple routine: the dishwasher connections under the sink, the washer hoses, the refrigerator's water line and the floor around each. The gas side is different. You watch and smell, but a gas range or dryer is never pulled out to inspect its connector; that check belongs to a licensed pro.

The water side: what to look at

Washing machine hoses. These hoses sit under water pressure all the time, so they deserve the closest look. Whirlpool recommends replacing washer inlet hoses after 5 years of use to reduce the risk of hose failure,^[1] and replacing them sooner if you find bulges, kinks, cuts, wear or leaks.^[1] Look at both hoses where they meet the wall valves and the back of the washer. Whirlpool suggests writing the replacement date on the hose label with a permanent marker,^[1] which makes the five-year mark easy to see. Whirlpool also advises turning off the water supply to the washer when you will be away or not using it for a while, to avoid flooding from a pressure surge.^[1]

Dishwasher connections. The supply line and drain hose run through the sink cabinet. Open it while the dishwasher fills and drains, and look and feel along each connection for drips. Whirlpool notes that worn, cracked or loose supply lines and drain tubes are a common cause of leaks,^[2] and that a leaking dishwasher can leave puddles and damp cabinetry.^[2] A warped cabinet floor or a stain spreading from the dishwasher side is worth acting on even if you never see a drip.

Refrigerator water line. If the refrigerator has an ice maker or water dispenser, look at the floor along its sides and the base trim for damp spots or swelling. Many lines also have a shut-off valve under the sink or in the basement; check it for drips when you are down there.

The floor itself. Soft spots, lifting vinyl, dark stains on hardwood, or a musty smell in the cabinet base are signs a slow leak has been going on for a while. In a basement or crawlspace, look up at the subfloor under the kitchen and laundry. For a whole-house routine, see how to check a house for leaks once a year and how to find a hidden water leak.

The gas side: watch, smell, do not pull

The Consumer Product Safety Commission's warning is the most important line on this page: "Moving the appliance, even slightly, whether to clean behind it or to inspect its gas connector, can cause the complete failure of one of these older weakened connectors, possibly resulting in a deadly fire or explosion."^[3] These older connectors are uncoated brass, and the CPSC says any uncoated brass connector should be replaced immediately with a new plastic-coated brass or stainless steel connector.^[3] Its advice on who does that is plain: "Only a qualified professional should check your connector and replace it if needed."^[3] Connectors can also wear out from too much moving, bending or corrosion.^[3]

What you can watch for without touching anything:

• Smell. Natural gas carries a rotten-egg odour.^[4] Any smell near a range, dryer or water heater is a reason to stop and leave, not investigate.
• The flame. Columbia Gas of Virginia lists a yellow flame or soot around a burner on a gas stove as a sign to call a qualified professional.^[5] Its care guide adds: "If your pilot light goes out, it could be a sign that your appliance needs to be inspected and repaired by a qualified professional."^[4]
• History. If you do not know when a gas appliance's connector was last replaced, or the appliance is decades old, that alone is a reason to book a check.

Before you move into a new property, Columbia Gas of Virginia recommends having all natural gas appliances, equipment and connectors checked by a qualified professional,^[4] and it also recommends scheduling inspections on a regular basis.^[4] Leak-testing gas connections is part of that professional check, not a homeowner job, and GE's range instructions carry a plain warning: "Do not use a flame to check for gas leaks."^[6]

The dryer vent counts too

A dryer's exhaust vent is part of its hookup, and a crushed or blocked one is a fire risk rather than a water leak. The U.S. Fire Administration says: "Check the venting system behind the dryer to make sure that it is not damaged, crushed or restricted."^[7] It adds: "Make sure that the outdoor vent covering opens when the dryer is operating."^[7] The CPSC notes that clothes that are still damp after a normal cycle, or drying that takes longer than it used to, can mean the lint screen or the exhaust duct is blocked.^[8]

When to call a licensed pro

Act straight away if you smell gas. Columbia Gas of Virginia tells customers to "go outside and call 911 and then call us at 1-800-544-5606 (24/7)."^[4] The CPSC's list for a suspected leak includes: "Do not light a match. Do not turn on a light. Do not switch on anything electrical."^[3] Customers of other gas utilities should use their own emergency number.

Book a licensed pro when:

• A gas appliance's connector is uncoated brass, unknown, or the appliance is being replaced or moved.
• A burner burns yellow, leaves soot, or a pilot keeps going out.
• A water connection drips at the valve, a hose bulges, or you find water near an appliance's wiring.
• A leak has already wet the subfloor or cabinet.

Virginia licenses plumbing, electrical and HVAC work as trades,^[9] and the home improvement (HIC) specialty does not cover electrical, plumbing, HVAC or gas fitting work,^[10] so match the job to the licence. A handyman can handle a hose swap or a new vent duct on a plug-in electric dryer; a gas connector, a valve or wiring goes to a licensed tradesperson. See who can hook up a gas dryer or range in Virginia, or, for a new machine that is already leaking, why a new dishwasher leaks after installation.

Browse more handyman answers or appliance repair. To have hookups checked or a connector replaced, describe the job once and licensed businesses will quote.