How do I care for refinished wood furniture?

The short version

Most of what keeps a new finish looking good is what you do not do: no sun, no wet rings, no silicone spray, no scrubbing. A few small habits do the rest. Dust, shade, steady humidity, quick spill cleanup and the occasional thin coat of paste wax will carry a refinished piece for years.

Go gently while it cures

A new finish feels dry well before it has cured. Sealers are easy to apply and cure quickly.^[2] Drying oils may require several weeks to cure.^[2] Ask the refinisher, or read the can, for the cure time, and until then use coasters, skip plastic place mats and tablecloths pressed on the surface, and do not stack things on it.

Dust, and clean lightly

Dust the piece often. If you vacuum, use a brush attachment. Hold the brush attachment just above the wood surface.^[1] Otherwise use a clean cotton cloth, turned frequently so it does not scratch. Don’t use feather dusters. They scatter the dust rather than collect it.^[1]

When dust is not the whole story, go carefully. Films often get worn away by repeated cleaning or by abrasion.^[2] Test a hidden spot first, then wipe with a barely damp cloth and dry the surface at once. Never use detergent because it will leave a film on the surface.^[1] Do not moisten a damaged, veneered, or inlayed surface.^[1] If the surface turns cloudy or sticky, see why a furniture finish goes cloudy or sticky.

Keep it out of the sun

Light damage to wooden objects in furnished historic structures is most commonly caused by sunlight streaming through unshaded windows.^[1] Light will change the natural color of heartwood, making light woods darker and dark woods lighter. It will fade stains and embrittle finishes.^[1] Draw the curtains in the strongest part of the day, shade the window, or move the piece. If it has to stay, rotate what sits on it so one patch does not fade differently from the rest.

Hold humidity steady

The ideal relative humidity level in most areas of the country for wooden objects is 50% plus or minus 5%.^[1] Virginia swings from damp summers to dry heated winters, so a hygrometer, a humidifier in January and a dehumidifier in August are worth having. Below 30% the glue may desiccate, joints may loosen, and finishes will become brittle.^[1] Keep refinished pieces away from radiators and heat vents.

Use paste wax, not spray polish

Wax is the one thing worth adding. Wax helps protect the surface from abrasive dust and handling.^[1] It slows the penetration of water and water vapor, which will cause the wood to swell.^[1] Apply wax only to stable, clear finishes, such as shellac, varnish, and modern lacquer.^[1]

Don’t use liquid polishes. They do not offer the same protection as paste and most contain silicones.^[1]

Most wood objects in furnished historic structures, however, will require rewaxing just every one to four years.^[1] As a general rule, rewaxing is not necessary if the existing wax layer can be buffed to a sheen.^[1] When you do wax, clean first. Clean the object to remove the existing wax. Waxing over dirty surfaces will produce a grimy buildup^[1] that dulls the grain. Use thin coats, wait for the solvent to evaporate, and buff.

Handle spills and heat

Minimizing water exposure prolongs finish life.^[2] Blot spills at once, dry the spot, and put coasters under glasses and trivets under hot dishes. A white ring that appears usually sits in the finish or wax and often lifts with a light buff or a rewax. If it does not, it is a repair job rather than a care job.

Store any oily or solvent-wet cloth safely. Store oily and solvent-wet rags in a tightly sealed metal container and then discard them.^[3]

Stop and call a pro if

• The finish has worn through to bare wood, especially on arms, edges and tabletops. A touch-up on bare wood is easier to see and harder to match.
• White rings or haze do not lift after cleaning and rewaxing. They may be under the finish.
• Joints loosen, veneer lifts or the wood cracks. Humidity swings or old glue can do that, and it needs a repair, not polish.
• You are unsure what finish is on the piece, or it is an antique. Ask before you wax or wipe it with solvent.
• A finish is sticky or flaking and a hidden-spot test lifts color.

Getting help in Virginia

If a piece needs more than care, read how to refinish a wood dresser, what refinishing costs in Virginia and whether it is worth refinishing old furniture. More help is at furniture repair answers, or browse refinishing requests.

When you want a pro to look at it, describe the piece and local furniture refinishers can quote it.