How do I know if an old shed is worth saving?

Start at the bottom: the floor and base

Most old sheds fail from the ground up. The USDA Forest Products Laboratory explains that serious decay occurs only when the moisture content of the wood is above the fiber saturation point, on average 30%,^[1] and that dried wood reaches that point only when it is wetted by rain or condensation or is in contact with wet ground.^[1] That is exactly where a shed's skids, floor joists and bottom plates sit. The same handbook recommends pressure-treated wood where wood is in contact with the ground, the highest decay hazard,^[1] and many older or budget sheds were not built that way.

Look and press along the skids, the rim of the floor frame and the bottom edge of the siding. The Forest Products Laboratory describes two main kinds of decay: brown-rotted wood turns browner, can crack across the grain into cube-like pieces, shrinks, collapses and can be crushed into powder,^[1] while white-rotted wood may look bleached and often feels spongy.^[1] Earlier on, early decay often shows as abnormal mottling, with unnatural brown or bleached areas in the wood.^[1]

A few soft floorboards are a repair. Soft skids or joists along a whole side, or a floor that bounces and dips, usually mean the base needs rebuilding, and that is most of the cost of a shed.

Check for termites

Virginia Cooperative Extension notes that wood structures in direct contact with the ground invite termite entrance.^[2] The giveaway is flattened, muddy-looking mud tubes, most about the width of a pencil, running from the ground to the infested wood.^[2] Termite damage hides well: termites eat the spring wood and leave the grain and outer surface intact, so the damage can go unnoticed,^[2] but tapping the wood every few inches with the handle of a screwdriver can find the galleries: damaged wood sounds hollow.^[2]

Active termites in a shed close to the house are a reason to call a pest control company whatever you decide about the shed.

Look up: the roof

Stains on the underside of the roof sheathing, daylight through the roof, or rafters that sag are the next thing to check. The good news is that wood kept air dry will not decay, and decay that is already there stops progressing,^[1] so a leak found early often means new roofing and a sheet or two of sheathing. A roof that has leaked for years usually means rotted rafters and wall tops, which pushes the job toward replacement.

Is it still square and level?

Doors that no longer close, a visible lean, gaps opening at the corners, or a floor that slopes toward one side usually mean the base has settled or the framing has racked. A shed on blocks that have sunk can sometimes be re-levelled. A shed whose wall framing has rotted at the bottom cannot be straightened without rebuilding those walls.

What it is made of

The materials can change the decision, especially if the alternative is tearing it down.

• Treated wood. The Consumer Product Safety Commission says a residential wood structure built before 2004 that is not cedar or redwood was most likely built with CCA-treated wood.^[3] The EPA does not require the removal of existing structures made with CCA-treated wood or the surrounding soil,^[4] and says applying a penetrating protective coating, such as an oil- or water-based stain, on a regular basis may reduce the leaching of chemicals.^[4] The EPA also says wood treated with chromated arsenicals should not be reused in products such as mulch, and CCA or other preservative-treated wood should not be burned in a residential setting.^[4]
• Old paint. The EPA says buildings from before 1978 are more likely to have lead-based paint,^[5] and that renovation or repair work that disturbs painted surfaces in older buildings and structures may create large amounts of lead dust.^[5] Scraping and repainting a pre-1978 shed is not a casual weekend job.
• Old roofing or siding panels. Panels you cannot identify on an older shed may contain asbestos and should be tested before anyone cuts or breaks them.

Repair, replace or remove

Get a repair quote and price a new shed of the size you need before deciding. A repair that replaces framing is carpentry on a structure, so expect a contractor to quote it. A Class C licence covers single jobs over $1,000 but less than $30,000.^[8]

If you replace it, check the permit rules first. Under Virginia's building code, one-story detached tool and storage sheds of 256 square feet or less do not need a building permit,^[7] but local rules add to that. In Prince William County, for example, every shed needs zoning approval,^[6] a building permit is needed for a shed larger than 256 square feet,^[6] and even a shed under 256 square feet needs trade permits if electrical, plumbing or mechanical work is installed.^[6]

If the answer is to take it down, see what tearing down a shed involves and what shed demolition costs in Virginia.

When to call a licensed pro

• Rot or termite damage reaches the skids, floor joists, sills or wall studs.
• The shed leans, the roof sags, or the floor has given way anywhere.
• It has wiring, a water line or a gas line.
• It was built before 1978 and the paint is peeling, or it has roofing or siding panels you cannot identify.
• You find mud tubes or swarming termites, especially if the shed is close to the house.

Check any contractor's licence before you sign; see how to check if a contractor is licensed in Virginia. Browse more junk removal and moving answers, see shed and structure teardown businesses, or find junk removal businesses around Blacksburg. If it is time for the shed to go, describe it on Loclis with photos of the floor, base and roof, and businesses quote on the same job.